Rear Differential Seal Questions and Answers
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Ford rear differential leak in front. How do I fix it? I have a 2001 Ford F-150 pickup truck that had been leaking for quite some time. I thought it was the board on the back, but after replacing the board and adding more fluid, I discovered that it was leaking from the front the difference that con ... moreford dealer key west
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i dropped off my jeep at the dealer to get it worked on and it turns out that there are some issues . . . my check engine light was on, but that was because of a vapor seal not working because my gas cap wasn't on right. so that's no big deal. the broken suspension components, shot timing belt and a ... moreUsed Parts
On my way to Florida in November I noticed differential oil leaking out of my axle on the right rear. A bearing failure for sure! I added more oil and hoped for the best, but it continued to come out past the oil seal, and at Myrtle Beach I knew it wasn’t going to make [...] No related posts. moreVolkswagen Golf GTI
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The problem is definitely a leaking differential seal. ... Otherwise, your rear wheels might lock up once the differential loses all of its ... moreHow to Torque Rear Differential Cover | eHow.com
How to article - how to torque rear differential cover. After draining your differential and inspecting the gears, you'll need to seal the system back up. Follow the... moreDriveshaft, Rear AxleDriveline, Rear Axle
Speed Sensor Seal. Wheel Bearing Oil Seal. Rear Axle Failure. Differential and Rear Axle Exchange ... wheel bearing seals or differential seals or gaskets. ... moreDifferential
Gear Oil Viscosity & Pinion Seal Questions on Rear Differential. Gear Whine on K2500 ... What Gasket Material to Use for Rear Differential ... moreToyota Maintenance: Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings and Seals
When a rear axle seal goes bad, it's typically noticeable by gear ... causes of axle seal failure are plugged differential breathers or worn wheel bearings. ... more1990 Volvo Differential Gaskets & Seals: Find, Compare, Read Reviews ...
... comparison shop for 1990 Volvo Differential Gaskets & Seals Compare products, compare prices, read reviews ... 1985-1990 Volvo 760 Turbo Rear Wheel Seal-Outer ... moreToyota Maintenance: Replacing a Rear Axle Seal
... causes of Toyota rear axle seal failure is a plugged differential breather. ... At this point, the rear brakes are bled, the differential oil level is checked ... moreVolvo 740 Differential Gaskets & Seals: Find, Compare, Read Reviews ...
... to comparison shop for Volvo 740 Differential Gaskets & Seals Compare products, compare prices, read reviews and ... This is the seal at the rear differential ... moreHow to Fill A Rear Differential | eHow.com
How to article - how to fill a rear differential. You may need to add fluid to your differential due to leaks or changing seals, or it may be time to change out the... moreRear Differential
Rear Differential : Z1 Motorsports Z32 Division ... and Seals (AT)Manual Transmission Rear Differential Solenoids & Selector Switch ... moreRear Differential Seal Questions and Answers
Open Question: what seal is easier to replace on a rear differential the inspection cover or the pinion seal?
not sure which one is leaking so i might just do both or pin-point the problem to one or the other then look up how to do it then learn how to do it. moreResolved Question: What kind of RTV silicone do you use to make or seal a rear?
differential gasket on a blazer? I know there is RED and BLUE, etc. What is the difference between them? Secondly after changing the seal/gasket how soon should you refill the oil gear fluid in the differential? Can you put the oil in right away or do you have to wait for the seal to set up? moreResolved Question: 2001 4x4 crew cab s-10 falling apart?
I have an 01 s10 with 90000 miles on it I take good care of it I do all the regular maintenance when it should be done but its breaking down faster than I can fix it. Both front hub bearings have gone bad the wiper motor has been replaced twice. Now it has a leaking head gasket and the front differential is falling apart bearings in it are shot and all the seals in it are leaking. The gas filler neck is rusted through so the check engine light wont go off until I replace it. and the rear pinion shaft seal has been replaced and is now leaking again. And the brake lines have had to be replaced. Is anyone else having these kind of problems. It is the 4.3 vortech v6 ls model moreVoting Question: Help I have a humming sound is coming from the rear of my 96 suburban?
less then a week ago I started to hear a humming sound coming from the rear suspension when accelerating. Thought the rear differential might be low on oil because it had a slow leak. So we changed the rear seal, oil was dirty but no sludge, and refilled it. Took it on a test drive and it is still humming during acceleration and maintaining speed. I am not sure exactly where it is coming from, but could it be the ujoint? Thanks in advance for any input, Vince moreResolved Question: 98 DURANGO PINION NUT?
98 DODGE DURANGO I AM LOOKING FOR A PINION NUT FOR A 98 DODGE DURANGO. THE DRIVE TRAIN SLIPPED OUT AT LOW SPEED. AS FAR AS I CAN TELL THAT IS ALL IT NEEDS. WILL I NEED ANYTHING ELSE AND WHERE MAY I GET THAT PIECE? THE SEAL IS STILL IN PLACE.THE PINION IS SEPARATED FROM THE DIFFERENTIAL, IT SLIPS IN AND OUT...WILL I NEED ANY THING OTHER THAN A NUT TO HOLD IT IN PLACE? THERE ARE NO OTHER VISIBLE PARTS BESIDES THE PLATE SURROUNDING THE NUT WHERE THE PINION ENTERS THE REAR DIFF. moreResolved Question: Rear differential noise?
Had the pinion seal changed recently and now the rear diff hums on deceleration mostly, kinda like a whine. I think the guy overtightened the pinion nut/bolt, and screwed up the preload. Any ideas or am I right? Its a 91 Isuzu Rodeo with the GM 10 bolt in the rear, although a differential is a differential. moreResolved Question: Pinion seal and differential?
So got a leacking pinion seal on a 91 Isuzu rodeo 3.1V6, just started about a week ago. Still got some geaer oil left in the diff, my questions are how long should I drive assuming that the gear oil will eventually just leak out, rough idea on the labour time. Also in order to get the part I need to know if it has Dana rear end, I have no idea all I know is it has ten bolts on the housing cover, how would I tell if it has a Dana diff in it? Any input is greatly appreciated. moreVoting Question: How much should I expect to pay to fix my 98 Subaru Forester?
Took her to the mechanic... Here's the list of what is wrong: Both front CV joints bad Air conditioning belt needs replacement dirty power steering fluid tires are bad rear bushings need to be replaced alignment needed excessive oil leak from oil pump, cam seals, valve cover gaskets, rear inspection cover, and possibly oil pan right side differential seal on transmission starting to leak head gasket needs to be replaced I know it is a lot. If you have experience with ANY of these things, please tell me. And I'm not going to sell her. Mechanic said about $3000 to fix her all up. The cost will pretty much even out after that, because I bought her CHEAP. Thanks! Not in Alaska, Banditt. Cheapest you get is about 4500 and those require fixes too. They sell within hours of posting on craigslist regardless of condition. it has about 135,000 miles on it. I saw the head gasket myself and my mechanic showed me why it needed to be replaced. So based on the assumption that it DOES need to be replaced, how much do you think? Unfortunately, I don't know who to go with on best answer... I did check it out more, and other shops said that it was about the right price. Keep in mind I live in Alaska, everythingis moroe expensive here. Forgot to mention that alignment and tires not included. not sure about CV joint included or not in the price. Thanks everyone. Let's see what happens in voting! moreVoting Question: How much should I expect to pay to fix my 98 Subaru Forester?
Took her to the mechanic... Here's the list of what is wrong: Both front CV joints bad Air conditioning belt needs replacement dirty power steering fluid tires are bad rear bushings need to be replaced alignment needed excessive oil leak from oil pump, cam seals, valve cover gaskets, rear inspection cover, and possibly oil pan right side differential seal on transmission starting to leak head gasket needs to be replaced I know it is a lot. If you have experience with ANY of these things, please tell me. And I'm not going to sell her. Mechanic said about $3000 to fix her all up. The cost will pretty much even out after that, because I bought her CHEAP. Thanks! moreResolved Question: A Dealer's fraudulant coverup to safety and sell me a car HELP!?
I bought a BMW from a European Car dealership late June 2008, 36 day dealership warranty, unlimited km's powertrain "engine and gearbox" warranty. 1st day we saw the car the Check engine light, ABS and Traction control lights were all on and a check coolant level message. Dealer told me not to worry the car just came in and will be repaired and Certified all before delivery... naturally none of this was written down, all was said and done verbally. A week later I go to pick the car up. All seemed in order, sales rep said there was some issues they had to address for safety and that all is in order now. So our lovely "coolish" summer passes and winter comes around months later and the car seems to not all be in good order, ABS is not funtioning at all, traction control does not work, was extremely difficult to just keep the car on the road in snowy conditions, until i added 300lbs of sandbags in the trunk. Then I started experiencing some engine performance problems, whining noises in the transmission, grinding noises in the differential, oh and did I mention I had to do repairs on the front suspension as well as the rear susspension that broke 3 months after I bought the car, had to get new springs struts etc... front steering control arms and steering support arms... So all this now suspecting problems with the engine, gearbox and differential, I took the car for a BMW scan and dealership said my check engine light at minimum shhould be on as there were over 10 engine fault codes and the light wasn't on so had to be defective, I took the car home with my new found information, and recalled that I had seen the check engine light on when I bought the car as well as the ABS and ASC light... I took the instrument cluster out and opened it up to expect to see some blown light bulbs, but to my horror discovered that the light had been covered up from the inside with black electrical tape, not enabling me to see any faults with the car that were obviously there... I removed 2 of the 3 peices of tape, re-installed the cluster and the light were on showing that there are issues with the car and that they very likely have never been repaired and merely hidden to get the car through safety and to be able to sell it... I then paid another dealer again to do the same inspection to remove the last peice of tape so that I could have a written report of the cover up... this was after I realised the possible implications of what was going on, in hind sight I should have gotten them to inspect it straight away after finding the the initial problems... and then they would have discovered the horror first hand... So to sum up, 6 months after buying a $8000 car I have a car that has several engine problems, susspension problems, braking problems in inoperative ABS and Traction control. Defects with the exhaust system, possibly also the transmission and differential... is this execptable, how do I resolve this with the dealer that pretty much is just denying any knowledge of the pre-existing conditions and warning light cover up... and staying put on the fact that the car is past it's 36 day dealership warrenty... I feel that this car was a deliberate fraudulant sale and am now stuck with a car that coninsedently broke down in the middle of an intersection today wouldn't go into any gears... so I don't even know what is wrong with it yet, mechanic is just starting initial diagnosis ... again...... does the lemon law or any other law protect me for this? With all these faults I'm looking at $12000 + worth of repairs, I would never have bought the car if those lights were still on the day we signed the papers... Also after signing the dealer said oh by the way, the warranty doesn't cover any gaskets or seals and wrote on the bill of sale sold as seen, without discussing this fact with me... The 2 things that got me into looking at the car to begin with was the fact that the add said that the car is in Excellent condition and that the buyer would be doing so in confidence as the dealer is a UCDA member... but my experience thus far has left me sleepless and emotionally distraught, I don't even know what to think or what to do, I have so many emotions of utter anger, dibelief, sadness, that I am sick to my stomach, since last thursday when I found the lights covered up, and now today the physical 2nd breakdown... HELP PLEASE any one with advise or legal advice? I bought this car in Toronto Ontario Canada moreResolved Question: A Dealer's fraudulant coverup to safety and sell me a car HELP!?
A Dealer's fraudulant coverup to safety and sell me a car HELP!? I bought a BMW from a European Car dealership late June 2008, 36 day dealership warranty, unlimited km's powertrain "engine and gearbox" warranty. 1st day we saw the car the Check engine light, ABS and Traction control lights were all on and a check coolant level message. Dealer told me not to worry the car just came in and will be repaired and Certified all before delivery... naturally none of this was written down, all was said and done verbally. A week later I go to pick the car up. All seemed in order, sales rep said there was some issues they had to address for safety and that all is in order now. So our lovely "coolish" summer passes and winter comes around months later and the car seems to not all be in good order, ABS is not funtioning at all, traction control does not work, was extremely difficult to just keep the car on the road in snowy conditions, until i added 300lbs of sandbags in the trunk. Then I started experiencing some engine performance problems, whining noises in the transmission, grinding noises in the differential, oh and did I mention I had to do repairs on the front suspension as well as the rear susspension that broke 3 months after I bought the car, had to get new springs struts etc... front steering control arms and steering support arms... So all this now suspecting problems with the engine, gearbox and differential, I took the car for a BMW scan and dealership said my check engine light at minimum shhould be on as there were over 10 engine fault codes and the light wasn't on so had to be defective, I took the car home with my new found information, and recalled that I had seen the check engine light on when I bought the car as well as the ABS and ASC light... I took the instrument cluster out and opened it up to expect to see some blown light bulbs, but to my horror discovered that the light had been covered up from the inside with black electrical tape, not enabling me to see any faults with the car that were obviously there... I removed 2 of the 3 peices of tape, re-installed the cluster and the light were on showing that there are issues with the car and that they very likely have never been repaired and merely hidden to get the car through safety and to be able to sell it... I then paid another dealer again to do the same inspection to remove the last peice of tape so that I could have a written report of the cover up... this was after I realised the possible implications of what was going on, in hind sight I should have gotten them to inspect it straight away after finding the the initial problems... and then they would have discovered the horror first hand... So to sum up, 6 months after buying a $8000 car I have a car that has several engine problems, susspension problems, braking problems in inoperative ABS and Traction control. Defects with the exhaust system, possibly also the transmission and differential... is this execptable, how do I resolve this with the dealer that pretty much is just denying any knowledge of the pre-existing conditions and warning light cover up... and staying put on the fact that the car is past it's 36 day dealership warrenty... I feel that this car was a deliberate fraudulant sale and am now stuck with a car that coninsedently broke down in the middle of an intersection today wouldn't go into any gears... so I don't even know what is wrong with it yet, mechanic is just starting initial diagnosis ... again...... does the lemon law or any other law protect me for this? With all these faults I'm looking at $12000 + worth of repairs, I would never have bought the car if those lights were still on the day we signed the papers... Also after signing the dealer said oh by the way, the warranty doesn't cover any gaskets or seals and wrote on the bill of sale sold as seen, without discussing this fact with me... The 2 things that got me into looking at the car to begin with was the fact that the add said that the car is in Excellent condition and that the buyer would be doing so in confidence as the dealer is a UCDA member... but my experience thus far has left me sleepless and emotionally distraught, I don't even know what to think or what to do, I have so many emotions of utter anger, dibelief, sadness, that I am sick to my stomach, since last thursday when I found the lights covered up, and now today the physical 2nd breakdown... HELP PLEASE any one with advise or legal advice? I bought this car in Toronto Ontario Canada moreVoting Question: A Dealer's fraudulant coverup to safety and sell me a car HELP!?
I bought a BMW from a European Car dealership late June 2008, 36 day dealership warranty, unlimited km's powertrain "engine and gearbox" warranty. 1st day we saw the car the Check engine light, ABS and Traction control lights were all on and a check coolant level message. Dealer told me not to worry the car just came in and will be repaired and Certified all before delivery... naturally none of this was written down, all was said and done verbally. A week later I go to pick the car up. All seemed in order, sales rep said there was some issues they had to address for safety and that all is in order now. So our lovely "coolish" summer passes and winter comes around months later and the car seems to not all be in good order, ABS is not funtioning at all, traction control does not work, was extremely difficult to just keep the car on the road in snowy conditions, until i added 300lbs of sandbags in the trunk. Then I started experiencing some engine performance problems, whining noises in the transmission, grinding noises in the differential, oh and did I mention I had to do repairs on the front suspension as well as the rear susspension that broke 3 months after I bought the car, had to get new springs struts etc... front steering control arms and steering support arms... So all this now suspecting problems with the engine, gearbox and differential, I took the car for a BMW scan and dealership said my check engine light at minimum shhould be on as there were over 10 engine fault codes and the light wasn't on so had to be defective, I took the car home with my new found information, and recalled that I had seen the check engine light on when I bought the car as well as the ABS and ASC light... I took the instrument cluster out and opened it up to expect to see some blown light bulbs, but to my horror discovered that the light had been covered up from the inside with black electrical tape, not enabling me to see any faults with the car that were obviously there... I removed 2 of the 3 peices of tape, re-installed the cluster and the light were on showing that there are issues with the car and that they very likely have never been repaired and merely hidden to get the car through safety and to be able to sell it... I then paid another dealer again to do the same inspection to remove the last peice of tape so that I could have a written report of the cover up... this was after I realised the possible implications of what was going on, in hind sight I should have gotten them to inspect it straight away after finding the the initial problems... and then they would have discovered the horror first hand... So to sum up, 6 months after buying a $8000 car I have a car that has several engine problems, susspension problems, braking problems in inoperative ABS and Traction control. Defects with the exhaust system, possibly also the transmission and differential... is this execptable, how do I resolve this with the dealer that pretty much is just denying any knowledge of the pre-existing conditions and warning light cover up... and staying put on the fact that the car is past it's 36 day dealership warrenty... I feel that this car was a deliberate fraudulant sale and am now stuck with a car that coninsedently broke down in the middle of an intersection today wouldn't go into any gears... so I don't even know what is wrong with it yet, mechanic is just starting initial diagnosis ... again...... does the lemon law or any other law protect me for this? With all these faults I'm looking at $12000 + worth of repairs, I would never have bought the car if those lights were still on the day we signed the papers... Also after signing the dealer said oh by the way, the warranty doesn't cover any gaskets or seals and wrote on the bill of sale sold as seen, without discussing this fact with me... The 2 things that got me into looking at the car to begin with was the fact that the add said that the car is in Excellent condition and that the buyer would be doing so in confidence as the dealer is a UCDA member... but my experience thus far has left me sleepless and emotionally distraught, I don't even know what to think or what to do, I have so many emotions of utter anger, dibelief, sadness, that I am sick to my stomach, since last thursday when I found the lights covered up, and now today the physical 2nd breakdown... HELP PLEASE any one with advise or legal advice? I bought this car in Toronto Ontario Canada moreResolved Question: Car Dealership Fraud, Lemon Law? Major faults on a car I bought 6 months ago?
I bought a BMW from a European Car dealership late June 2008, 36 day dealership warranty, unlimited km's powertrain "engine and gearbox" warranty. 1st day we saw the car the Check engine light, ABS and Traction control lights were all on and a check coolant level message. Dealer told me not to worry the car just came in and will be repaired and Certified all before delivery... naturally none of this was written down, all was said and done verbally. A week later I go to pick the car up. All seemed in order, sales rep said there was some issues they had to address for safety and that all is in order now. So our lovely "coolish" summer passes and winter comes around months later and the car seems to not all be in good order, ABS is not funtioning at all, traction control does not work, was extremely difficult to just keep the car on the road in snowy conditions, until i added 300lbs of sandbags in the trunk. Then I started experiencing some engine performance problems, whining noises in the transmission, grinding noises in the differential, oh and did I mention I had to do repairs on the front suspension as well as the rear susspension that broke 3 months after I bought the car, had to get new springs struts etc... front steering control arms and steering support arms... So all this now suspecting problems with the engine, gearbox and differential, I took the car for a BMW scan and dealership said my check engine light at minimum shhould be on as there were over 10 engine fault codes and the light wasn't on so had to be defective, I took the car home with my new found information, and recalled that I had seen the check engine light on when I bought the car as well as the ABS and ASC light... I took the instrument cluster out and opened it up to expect to see some blown light bulbs, but to my horror discovered that the light had been covered up from the inside with black electrical tape, not enabling me to see any faults with the car that were obviously there... I removed 2 of the 3 peices of tape, re-installed the cluster and the light were on showing that there are issues with the car and that they very likely have never been repaired and merely hidden to get the car through safety and to be able to sell it... I then paid another dealer again to do the same inspection to remove the last peice of tape so that I could have a written report of the cover up... this was after I realised the possible implications of what was going on, in hind sight I should have gotten them to inspect it straight away after finding the the initial problems... and then they would have discovered the horror first hand... So to sum up, 6 months after buying a $8000 car I have a car that has several engine problems, susspension problems, braking problems in inoperative ABS and Traction control. Defects with the exhaust system, possibly also the transmission and differential... is this execptable, how do I resolve this with the dealer that pretty much is just denying any knowledge of the pre-existing conditions and warning light cover up... and staying put on the fact that the car is past it's 36 day dealership warrenty... I feel that this car was a deliberate fraudulant sale and am now stuck with a car that coninsedently broke down in the middle of an intersection today wouldn't go into any gears... so I don't even know what is wrong with it yet, mechanic is just starting initial diagnosis ... again...... does the lemon law or any other law protect me for this? With all these faults I'm looking at $12000 + worth of repairs, I would never have bought the car if those lights were still on the day we signed the papers... Also after signing the dealer said oh by the way, the warranty doesn't cover any gaskets or seals and wrote on the bill of sale sold as seen, without discussing this fact with me... The 2 things that got me into looking at the car to begin with was the fact that the add said that the car is in Excellent condition and that the buyer would be doing so in confidence as the dealer is a UCDA member... but my experience thus far has left me sleepless and emotionally distraught, I don't even know what to think or what to do, I have so many emotions of utter anger, dibelief, sadness, that I am sick to my stomach, since last thursday when I found the lights covered up, and now today the physical 2nd breakdown... HELP PLEASE any one with advise or legal advice? I bought this car in Toronto Ontario Canada moreResolved Question: Should I follow Toyota's service schedule or just follow a rule of thumb when it comes to maintenance?
2005 Toyota Highlander I really don't feel like paying alot for the dealer to "inspect" things on my car although Toyota's service schedule recommends it. Someone on a Toyota forum told me this, what do you think? If you intend on just draining and filling your fluids you should do your transmission fluid and engine coolant at 30k. If you intend on flushing those systems you can wait until you reach 45k, at that point I would do trans fluid, engine coolant, power steering fluid and brake fluid. How I recommend to my customers to maintain their vehicle is 5k oil changes and tire rotations, 15k along with the aforementioned do a wheel balance and alignment, between 15k-20k change your cabin filter and engine air filter (depending on where you live, i.e. dust, a lot of pollen, etc. 30k-45k recommend engine coolant and trans fluid, as well as brake fluid and power steering fluid closer at 45k. Between 45k-60k I would do your front and rear differential fluid if you have 4wd/awd and maybe a fuel injection cleaning. At 60k-90k I recommend plugs, plug wires, PCV valve (at least check it). At 90k I recommend (depending on the car, year) timing belt, water pump, cam/crank seals, accessory drive belts (serpentine drive belts) if they haven't been changed recently since you have to remove them to do timing belt, etc. That's maintenance. Repairs such as brake pads, new tires, drive belts, etc are as needed. moreResolved Question: 94 dodge caravan trans leak?
I have a leak onthe back side of my trans its a 4 speed and the leak is from a cover that reminds me of a differential.Its between the trans and fire wall on the drivers side . Its not the trans pan or any of the seals /rear or cv . its a big plate i need to know what its called .Maybe someone can find a pic and i can point it out. Yes baldie its on the drivers side right behind the CV axle on the back of the trans by the cross member frame. it looks like theres a gasket in there. Lucis has not stopped this leak but it smoothed out my shifting by a ton .Now i can barely feel it shifting. moreVoting Question: Mazda differential leak because of rust?
I have a 92 Mazda MPV that the rear diff is so rusted that it is leaking, i don't want to use it on the road, but just use it as a plow vehicle. I was wondering if thay made a product that i could put into the diff so that i would seal up the leak, or if there is something i could spray on the outside that would be oil resistant. moreResolved Question: My rear differential is leaking on '04 Explorer, is it covered under warranty?
The passenger-side seal on my rear differential (between the CV joint and the differential housing) is leaking oil. This is a common problem with the 2004 Ford Explorer. I think that Ford even extended the warranty due to how wide spread the problem is, but not really sure. So, I want to know if it is covered under the manufacturer's (drive train or other) warranty and if I can just take it in to have them fix it at no cost to me. I bought the car used, but I bought it from a Ford dealership. moreResolved Question: New pinion seal in the rear differential?
okay so I just had a mechanic check out my car, 2001 chevy camaro.. and he said I had a pinion leak in the rear differential and I should have it fixed when I can. Is this a huge issue or is it okay to put off for a few weeks, payday...:'( moreResolved Question: How do I change the pinion seal in the rear differential on a 97 Dodge Ram van2500?
I blew the seal out of the rear differentiall on my van. I bought the seal today. I never did one before. moreResolved Question: how do you replace the differential seal? and is it a big job?
this is a part two about a leak a car had. its the rear diff on a 1999 nissan pathfinder. the part cost 8 dollars, but is it a job i can do or should a mechanic? i have some mechanical experience, nothing major. moreResolved Question: I have a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe, it leaks oil from the rear bottom..What should I do?
I just took it to repair shop, they said I have to remove and replace the differential pinion seal, the part only cost $30, but the labor cost $300, is that a reasonable price, they said it at least take them 2 and half hours to finish the job. Should I do it or should I take it to another to compare the price? Will it hurt my car if I ignore the problem? coz it drives ok. Please help..That's the only car that I have, I afarid it will broke down.. moreResolved Question: Should you change the manual transmission oil on VWs?
The service manager says they're sealed for life. Also, should you change the rear differential oil on VWs with 4Motion? I have a 2004 VW R32. moreResolved Question: Blown rear axle seals due to over filling differential?
Hello all, I drive a 2004 Ford F150. I was experiencing some brake squeal for the past while so I took my truck in to a dealership to have it checked out. Turns out both of my rear axle seals were leaking and the fluid had run down over my wheels and brakes which in turn forced me to have the brakes replaced along with a hand full of other parts. The truck only has 48,000km on it so it's not that old. I am trying to figure out what could have caused the seals to start leaking. A couple of months ago I took the truck to Mr. Lube for a quick oil change. They offered to check my differential fluid then said that both the front and rear should be replaced. I agreed to let them do the procedure. Afterwards they told me to put some cardboard under my truck to catch any fluid drips that could leak out. Is it possible that they over filled the rear differential and this is what caused my rear axle seals to get blown out? Or is this just my own bad luck with wear and tear? moreVoting Question: Please explain why I need a new rear differential??
My car, a 2001 AWD Sante Fe (with only 91 000 km) was in for its MVI & oil change. At that time, the mechanics noticed that the car needed a new pinion seal & was leaking fluid. Apparently, when they replaced the seal, they noticed a larger problem (not fully explained to me). They tell me the fluid was dirty & ressembled molasses. They also tell me I need a new REAR DIFFERENTIAL. My car, which had being running quietly, now sounds like an airplane whenever I take my foot off the gas. Can someone please explain a) why its loud now (with better fluid) and b) how a car with low mileage, no off-roading & regular "check-ups" at the dealership could get to such a state that it needs a new rear diferential. Also, does this pose a safety hazard until I am able to get a new differential. I travel with 3 small children & don't want to drive an unsafe vehicle. moreResolved Question: Repair Shop Negligence... should they repair?
Last November the shop replaced the rear axle seals on my husband's '97 ford ranger 4 cyl, 2 wheel drive. They started leaking again a short time later. They replaced them again free of charge April 07, 2008. On May 06, 2008 while he was driving the differential seized up, making a very very loud growl and grinding noise, almost deafening and he came to an almost sudden stop. My thought is that the repair shop didn't refil the differential fluid(gear oil I think) which lead to it going nearly dry and grinding down the gears. Should the shop be responsible for repairing this? I have gotten estimates and it's going to be about $750 to replace the rear end. Yes the truck is in awesome condition with 75k-85k miles. An oil change was done at the same time as the rear axle seal were done, there have been no oil leaks so no reason to check the engine oil. I honestly don't think the average joe checks the differential fluid with engine oil. My dad and brothers are auto mechanics and are shaking their heads with this one. moreResolved Question: Dry U joint squeak and Differential seal?
1993 chevy blazer 4.3L vortec with 4x4. My factory U Joints are dry and squeaking, is there anyway to lube them or make the squeak go away temporarily? My rear diff is leaking where the driveshaft attaches. How much would it cost to get this seal fixed. and the cost of a driveshaft (used). How much labour am i looking at? moreResolved Question: Rear differential leak 1997 Merc Mountaineer AWD?
One owner garaged 1997 Mercury Mountaineer with AWD 73,000 miles. Had a leak at the rear differential cover a couple weeks back, I replaced the gasket and seal and stopped the leak and added new gear oil. Now, I've noticed there's a leak coming from where the driveshaft meets the differential. I assume there's a seal somewhere in there. What's causing the leak? And how much do you think professional repair is going to cost? (I'm looking for dealership type repair costs, I plan on taking it into the local Ford dealer.) moreResolved Question: Jeep differential fluid?
I bought a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee laredo with selectrac from a private owner with 60K on it. I am in the process of changing all of the fluids since the guy a bought it from didn't keep many of the service records. I have records of the pinions seals and u joints being replaced at 50K, but I am not sure if those processes required a complete fluid change. In changing the fr and rear differential oils, would it be sufficient to use a suction gun to extract the old fluids or do I need to take the covers off to do a proper job? The seals both are dry and holding well. moreResolved Question: how do I add differential fluid to a c230 k?
rear seal leaks, I see a hose going up from the dipstick, but I can't find a place to add the fluid. Is there a dipstick to measure fluid and a place to add? moreResolved Question: Would a 93 3sgte celica motor, tranny, ecu, and harness bolt into my 97 toyota celica with the 5sfe engine?
My 5sfe engine in my 97 toyota celica is toast. However, a person i know will sell me a 93 3sgte engine with the tranny, ecu, and wiring harness. Will this bolt right into my car without modifications? Also, since I dont have a rear driveshaft and differential, how could I seal the rear output shaft of the 3sgte motor.. or would I have to? Thanks in advance moreResolved Question: What damage can a defective rear axle housing do to a freightliner cst120?
The front differential rear seal has been replaced three times, constantly having to add oil- they only just found the problem a year after the problems started. Have had to pay to readjust the alignment on the truck more than once. The repair order states "Cause: axle housing lreaking at output pinion weld areas." Any info? Thanks in advance :) I had it replaced, but my main conern is the truck is running MUCH better than it has since I got it new. I had it checked and every time I had it checked they just replaced the seals, then added 'gear oil' before sending me down the road. Could this have caused any damage to my truck running it that long? Also, the damage on the second page of details says-- "Found the axle housing leaking at the area of where the seal is drove in and not the seal itself" haha their grammar- Is it safe to assume all is fine since the replacement? When something is this defective, what essentially does it do to the truck while part remains unfixed? Thanks so much for the responses, you all are so very helpful. Sorry, am just ignorant- I know where the oil goes, and the gas- and how to turn it on and drive it- mechanics are not my thing- OBVIOUSLY. moreResolved Question: dodge pickup ram?
is one able to do the job on changing the rear differential oil seal without causing problems to the pinion gear, do we need to replace any internal differential parts when one replaces the seal, how bout tolerances or torquing ranges can any body input on this model 95ram pickup 2500. moreResolved Question: 1999 lincoln Town Car differential?
Hi I recently bought 1999 Town Car ex- airport limo with 350k on the clock. The car was driving fine until recently it just quit in the middle of driving about 80 km/h as if it shifted itself into neutral. Smoke started coming out of the passenger side rear wheel. Differential oil completely leaked out (broken seal). The car does not engage in any gear. I assume the axleshaft needs to be replaced with new seal and diff oil. Any speculations and suggestions Thank You Dan moreResolved Question: can i change a pinion seal w/out needing to "set up" the differential?
I have a 2003 jeep liberty with a leaky rear pinion seal, Can I just remove the drive shaft, yoke nut, u-joint yoke, replace seal, then re-install without needing to remove the diff cover? moreResolved Question: Grinding Noise Coming from my rear end on my 2000 Mustang GT?
Hello. Noticed a rear grinding noise my 2000 Ford Mustang GT. Took my car to another shop on Saturday and stayed from open to closing with promises of fixing b/4 end of day - I was there for 11 hours and they said that I needed new rear calipers, rear brake rotors, axle bearing seals, and axle shaft bearing. Also, that all else was fine in the rear end except for the fact that whom ever changed the rear axle fluid last did not use the correct weight synthetic fluid. Instead, regular engine oil. Picked up vehicle today with promise of 'fixed' and test driven with no grinding noise. Yet, I drove it and the noise continues and assistant manager agrees. Says to drive it 2 days and see if new fluid will help clear the noise as they have no other prognoses. All else is 'perfect' with no bearing issues nor metal shavings. Any advice? Are they right that having the incorrect rear differential fluid damaged my car? Will the correct fluid correct the issue? Thank you moreResolved Question: can a bad/malfunctioning engine mess up my front and rear differentials?
I just got my rear differential replaced, and the front one sealed. I got the engine flushed, but it still sounds bad. If the engine is less than perfect can it ruin the differentials? this is a 2004 nissan titan with 67,000 miles on it. piece of crap..... moreResolved Question: Dodge Ram Noise?
- 2002 Dodge Ram 1500, 2 wheel drive. - Makes a whurring/hollowing noise. The sound occurs when accelerating from a dead stop. I would describe it as a muffled seal bark. - I presume its the rear differential. Would changing the fluid fix this? Any suggestions? moreResolved Question: Torque setting for a Chevrolet Blazer??? Please Help!!!!?
Hey everyone, I'm working on replacing the pinion seal on the rear differential of a 1995 Chevrolet Blazer. I made the mistake of not measuring the pre-load torque on the center nut before removal. Does anyone know what this torque setting should be? Its a S-series. Just like the 1996 models Just finished it. 25 inch pounds worked. No noise!!! moreResolved Question: how do i know what kind of seal i need to get?
i have a 02 jeep wrangler, 6 cylinder and 4 wheel drive, and im leakin oil were the crankshaft/driveshaft attaches to the differential case on my rear axel, ive called Napa and auto zone, and they dont know what im talking about. if ne 1 can help me out, that would be a big help, thnx its not difficult to change the seal, my dad said hes done it b4 on a different car, i just need to know what kind of seal i need yea its deffinatly the drive shaft, crankshaft is on the engine i think, but i was hoping someone had to do this b4, so they would actually know what kind of seal to get..... moreResolved Question: How how do I check differential oil in 98 chevy blazer ?
My 1998 Blazer has a slow leak in the rear differential seal and I want to check the oil level. I thought I'd find a plug on the rear cover but there isn't one. There is a hose coming out of the top of the differential. Do I remove that and fill it there or is there another way ? moreResolved Question: Is it time to get the new car? But I love my 1995Acura Legend!?
Acura needs rear main seal and differential seals done which require the engine to be dropped...cost: $1,500-$2,000. The car has 253,000 miles on it but otherwise is in tip top shape. I am afraid that the mechanics will nickel dime me to death if I keep it when they see the odometer...Is it time to get the new car? I only have $15,000 to work with if I don't want a note... moreResolved Question: 2001 Chevy Tahoe rumble/ vibration?
I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe, there is a vibration/ rumble at 60-75 MpH, Truck has brand new tires, new rear u-joint on rear drive shaft, and front drive shaft is good. I put on new tires and a u-joint, got alot better but is still doing this , also noticed pedal pulsation started at about the time this rumble started, sounds like coming from front end, not sure if wheel bearing or what, just had front differential replaced recently about the time this happened, a chevy dealer couldn't get a leaking front seal out. Has never been in a accident or anything like that. Any ideas whats wrong? Could it be anything with the brakes? moreResolved Question: 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Left Rear Wheel - Noise?
Apart from a few leaky seals there are no obvious problems. A few months ago as I was driving into a parking lot after a 2 hour trip on the highway I heard a scapy/rubbing noise from the back end. I only noticed this noise as I was turning into the parking lot and it was at a very low speed (approx. 5mph). I didn't think anything of it and it was not there when I drove home later the same day (drove about 200 miles that day). I heard it a couple more times over the next couple of weeks and eventually decided to have it checked out. It occurs regularly now, but only after driving around for an hour or so and only when I am at low speeds turning (i.e. in a parking lot). I have had all the brakes replaced in the last 2 years and I have had the fluid changed in the rear diff. Last oil change the fluid in the diff looked ok. What could it be? Wheel bearing? Brake? Differential? It sounds like it comes from the wheel area and not from the middle where the differntial is. moreResolved Question: 1990 Oldsmobile, Siloette mini van, Front wheel drive, rear tires wearing funny, posible cause?
Noticed vibration increasing in rear end, thought it was lost wheel weight but not the cause, I put my foot on top side of tire and pushed and you could hear a, "clunk" "clunk" and the wheel moved side way shift..... ahhh bearings! Never done this style before, I jacked rearend, removed both rear tires and used a torx driver, removed both rear bearing housings. Different from the old cars with the differential as you remove 4 bolts and the sealed bearing housing and tire studs come off as a unit...interesting. I turn the stud assembly and all feels fine, nothing seems loose or grinding...hmmm... so I suspect once I lower the car and put 1,000 so odd pounds it will manifest itself so figure I will change the bearing assemblys. Both rear tires are worn extremely bad on inner side. I am guessing cause would be from the bad bearings and play in that. Rear shocks look oily, could this contribute to the worn tires if the shocks are no longer working or is this strictly bad bearings? moreResolved Question: What tools are need to pull a differential cover from an AMC 20 rear axle?
I bought a Jeep, and I want to put a new seal in the rear axle. It is an AMC 20. I am not sure what tools are needed. I have a place to do it. I want to start my tool collection, and start with tools I need now. Thanks for all the help. moreRear Differential Seal Links
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